No, each project is designed to be made with a specific weight of yarn. Changing the yarn weight will change the size and appearance of the finished project as well as change the amount of yarn required.
Yes, but be sure to test the “gauge” to make sure that an adjustment is not necessary as you substitute one yarn for another. See "What is 'gauge' and how is it determined?" to learn more about “gauge.”
Some yarns are dyed after spinning. They are dyed in large batches with each batch assigned a dye lot number. It is important to use balls from the same dye batch to avoid the disappointment of minor color variances in your finished project. “No Dye Lot” yarns are spun from fiber that is already colored. These yarns are purchased in very large quantities and spun into different weights. There is a production date on these balls of yarn, and it is best to purchase enough yarn for your project with the same date on them.
Gauge is the number of stitches and rows in every inch of knitting and the number of stitches and rows (or rounds) in every inch of crochet. The required gauge is specified in knitting and crochet patterns, and determines the finished size of the project. Since everyone knits and crochets differently, it is very important that you make a gauge swatch and match it with the gauge specified in the project pattern. You may find that if you knit or crochet loosely, you may have to use a needle or hook smaller than the pattern specifies. Likewise, if you knit or crochet tightly, you may need to use a needle or hook larger than the pattern specifies. It doesn’t matter what size needle or hook you use as long as your gauge swatch has the same number of stitches and rows per inch as specified in the pattern.
To convert inches to centimeters, multiply the inches by 2.54 and round to the closest half centimeter.
This chart is an initial reference you can use to determine your needle or hook size.
| Yarn Weight Symbol and Category names |  |
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 |
 |
 |
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| Type of yarns in Category | Sock, Fingering, Baby | Sport, Baby | DK, Light, Worsted | Worsted, Afghan, Aran | Chunky, Craft, Rug | Bulky, Roving |
| Knit Gauge Range* in Stockinette Stitch to 4 inches | 27 - 32 sts | 23 - 26 sts | 21 - 24 sts | 16 - 20 sts | 12 - 15 sts | 6 - 11 sts |
| Recommended Needle in Metric Size Range | 2.25 - 3.25 mm | 3.25 - 3.75 mm | 3.75 - 4.5 mm | 4.5 - 5.5 mm | 5.5 - 8 mm | 8 mm and larger |
| Recommended Needle U.S. Size Range | 1 to 3 | 3 to 5 | 5 to 7 | 7 to 9 | 9 to 11 | 11 and larger |
| Crochet Gauge* Ranges in Single Crochet to 4 inches | 21 - 32 sts | 16 - 20 sts | 12 - 17 sts | 11 - 14 sts | 8 - 11 sts | 5 - 9 sts |
| Recommended Hook in Metric Size Range | 2.25 - 3.5 mm | 3.5 - 4.5 mm | 4.5 - 5.5 mm | 5.5 - 6.5 mm | 6.5 - 9 mm | 9 mm and larger |
| Recommended Hook U.S. Size Range | B - 1 to E - 4 | E - 4 to 7 | 7 to I - 9 | I - 9 to K-10 1/2 | K-10 1/2 to M - 13 | M - 13 and larger |
| * Guidelines only: the above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories. | ||||||
Crochet hooks and knitting needles are made in a variety of materials such as wood, plastic, aluminum, bamboo, and steel. They come in many sizes designed to be used with different yarn weights. The choice of material is one of personal preference. Hook and needle sizes are indicated by letters, numbers, or millimeters (mm). The project instructions will specify the crochet hook or knitting needle size required for the pattern.
Double point and circular needles are different from straight knitting needles and are used for seamless knitting or “knitting-in-the-round.” Double point knitting needles come in sets of four or five and are used to make smaller round pieces such as cuffs, socks and mittens. Circular knitting needles come in various lengths and sizes, and are the tools of choice for larger round sections such as sleeves, collars, and the body of a sweater.
It is really up to you. Circular needles are more versatile as you can use them to knit “in the round” or “back and forth” like straight needles. They are good for knitting in close quarters like a car or public transport. Many people claim that they are also more comfortable to use.
This chart is an initial reference you can use to determine your needle or hook size.
Crochet Hook Conversion Chart
| Cdn. & U.K. Sizes |
000
|
00
|
0
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
-
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
-
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
| Metric Sizes (mm) |
10
|
9
|
8
|
7
|
6.5
|
6
|
5.5
|
5
|
4.5
|
4
|
3.75
|
3.5
|
3.25
|
3
|
2.75
|
2.5
|
2.25
|
2
|
| U.S. Sizes |
N |
M |
L |
- |
K |
J |
I |
H |
|
G |
F |
E |
D |
|
C |
|
B |
|
Knitting Needle Conversion Chart
| Cdn. & U.K. Sizes |
-
|
000
|
00
|
0
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
-
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
| Metric Sizes (mm) |
12.75
|
10
|
9
|
8
|
7.5
|
7
|
6.5
|
6
|
5.5
|
5
|
4.5
|
4
|
3.75
|
3.5
|
3.25
|
3
|
2.75
|
2.25
|
2
|
1.75
|
| U.S. Sizes |
17
|
15
|
13
|
11
|
-
|
-
|
10½
|
10
|
9
|
8
|
7
|
6
|
5
|
4
|
3
|
-
|
2
|
1
|
0
|
-
|
Pattern Ratings: Skill levels for knitting
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Projects for first-time knitters using basic knit and purl stitches. Minimal shaping. |
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Projects using basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing. |
 |
Projects with a variety of stitches, such as basic cables and lace, simple intarsia, double-pointed needles and knitting in the round needle techniques, mid-level shaping and finishing. |
 |
Projects using advanced techniques and stitches, such as short rows, fair isle, more intricate |
Pattern Ratings: Skill levels for crocheting
|
Projects for first-time crocheters using basic stitches. Minimal shaping. |
|
Projects using yarn with basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing. |
|
Projects using a variety of techniques, such as basic lace patterns or color patterns, mid-level shaping and finishing. |
|
Projects with intricate stitch patterns, techniques and dimension, such as non-repeating patterns, multi-color techniques, fine threads, small hooks, detailed shaping and refined finishing. |
The problem with joining ends of yarn in the middle of a row is that you risk having your knot come undone or popping out the front of your garment. For the amount of yarn that you save, it is not worth it. It is best to add new balls of yarn at the edges of your work.
You may re-use yarn that you rip out of a project but try to get the "kinks" or wrinkles out of it first. Steaming with an iron or blocking will work: wrap the yarn around a large, flat piece of cardboard and then apply steam or lay a very damp towel over board and let dry. Never apply an iron directly to the yarn.
The first step is to check the laundering instructions on the yarn label. This will tell you whether to machine wash and dry or hand launder and dry flat. Even if the yarn label indicates that you may machine wash and dry, remember that you are caring for a handmade item. It is recommended that delicate items be washed in a mesh laundry bag or pillow case and that you wash your handmade items separately from your other laundry.
Knit your project, and soak it in a solution of the following: 1-2 c PICKLING SALT and COLD WATER. Set for half an hour. Rinse THOROUGHLY in water. Soak again in VINEGAR and WATER. Set for half an hour. Rinse THOROUGHLY.
Pin garment pieces to measurements and cover with damp cloth leaving cloth to dry.
Finishing describes all of the actions needed to complete a garment after the knitting and crocheting is complete. This often includes seaming pieces of fabric together, blocking, embellishments and embroidery, sewing on buttons or zippers, and darning in your yarn ends.
Common seaming techniques
| Seam-stocking stitch | |
| Flat Seam for Knit fabric | |
| Flat Seam for Crochet fabric | |
| Grafting |
Common embellishments
| Fringe | Satin stitch |
| Tassle | Stem stitch |
| Braid | Overcast st |
| Twisted Cord | Blanket stitch |
| PomPom |
After felting, the sample is approx 85% of the width and 75% of the length of the knitted sample before felting.
After felting, the sample is approx 80% of the width and 95% of the length of the crocheted sample before felting.
